Michael Heizer, Effigy Tumuli (1985)

LaSalle County, Illinois

May, 2025

Background

Effigy Tumuli is a large land art piece by Michael Heizer located in Buffalo Rock State Park, Illinois. It consists of five enormous earthen mounds or tumuli’s, each an effigy, shaped to represent a native animal. The five huge sculptures that make up the piece are a water strider, frog, catfish, turtle, and snake. Unlike the ancient Native American tumuli’s that were burial sites, this is only an artistic monument as a form of land reclamation. (click through these links to see historic pictures of them) Water strider is 685 feet long with the antennae alone being 215 feet long. Frog. Catfish is 770 feet long and 18 feet tall (here’s another). Turtle is 650 feet long heading towards the water, with its shell being represented by some of the natural bedrock. Snake is made up over seven disconnected segments totaling 2,070 feet, also curving and dipping down towards the river. The latter two’s interaction with the topography make them much harder to fully see, but it’s difficult to really see any of them. Over the past 50 years, all five have experienced a natural reclamation and integration into the surrounding lands. Comparison to the original photos is key here, as the effigy tumuli’s slowly and surely fade into the land.

Nestled on a ~90 foot sandstone bluff overlooking the Illinois River, Buffalo Rock State Park was an early military fort, trading post, and missionary throughout the 17th and 19th centuries. At some point around the turn of the century it became a tuberculosis sanatorium, and then in 1912 the Crane Company of Chicago purchased the ~40ish acre plot and made it a vacation property for their staff and families. They donated it to the state in 1928. However, that’s only the history of the eastern part of the park (where the buildings, bathroom, bison, and picnicking areas are). The other 200 acres to the west were being strip mined for coal and silica sand. They were acquired at some point by the Ottawa Silica Company. Edmund Thornton was the chairman and chief executive officer and the head of the company’s foundation arm. He had also been on the advisory council to the Illinois Abandoned Mining Lands Reclamation Council, a state agency formed to oversee the distribution of funds (obtained from a tax on newly mined coal) to clean up old mines.

Thornton wanted to get the place cleaned up less out of environmental concerns than because of the dramatic setting. “The site posed no danger to the general public,” he says. “But it was a site that had great aesthetic potential… And it was immediately contiguous to Buffalo Rock State Park, which was a very small property. Basically, it was a reclamation for its potential as a public site.” Thornton worked out a deal with the reclamation agency. His company’s foundation would pay an artist to design “earth sculptures” for the site. The state would pay for the physical reclamation just like it does on other such projects. When the work was done the Ottawa Silica Company would donate the land to Buffalo Rock State Park and take a tax deduction in the process.

In 1983 Thornton commissioned Michael Heizer, a pioneering figure in the American Land Art movement known for monumental earthworks like Double Negative, to conceive a site nspecific work. Originally he wanted to do eight mounds, budget constraints reduced that to five. Workers used bulldozers and earth movers to sculpt slopes and edges. The scale was huge. Together the mounds were estimated to weigh more than a quarter of a million tons. Once the mounds were shaped they were covered with mats of “excelsior” which are shredded aspen fiber woven into a plastic netting that was meant to hold the soil in place until grass could take root. Then workers used trucks to blow shredded straw, grass seed, and fertilizer over the site. The area around the mounds, too, was graded, fertilized, and reseeded.

It was completed, dedicated, and deeded to the neighboring state park, vastly increasing its size. It took another two years for the Department of Conservation to complete a trails, signage, and observation decks. For a few years after, there were issues with Buffalo Rock Shooters Supply and its successor, Buffalo Pit and Range, having a gun range aimed south at the previously empty mining site. No one was hurt, but there were multiple incidents of vehicles and trees being hit by bullets. It closed areas of the park down in 1988 and 1990 while legal battles ensued. The gun range still operates today, and I can confirm that I did not hear or see any gunfire, so I assume developments over the past 30 years have been positive.

Effigy Tumuli was hailed as a bold fusion of mine reclamation and land art when it opened. A 1985 Christian Science Monitor profile described it as “grand sculpture in the tradition of Mt. Rushmore and the Egyptian pyramids,” while also praising its ecological renewal. ARTnews called it “a creative solution to the environmental problems of a once ruined and poisonous site.” Alice Thorson, the magazine’s critic, looked north across the valley to the barren gray hills that today house the Buffalo Pit and Range: “As yet unreclaimed cratered mine sites, dotted with sinister-looking pools of contaminated water, offer a sober ‘before’ picture. It is this contrast, coupled with the evocative associations of the tumuli, that ultimately endows Heizer’s piece with power and romance. . . . At once monument, playground and art object, Effigy Tumuli may well turn out to be one of the country’s most successful public sculptures,” she concluded.

Locally, however, opinions were mixed: the scale and maintenance challenges meant the forms were rarely distinct from the ground, and the site never achieved the tourism draw intended. But most local citizens, says Thornton, didn’t quite get it. “Some thought it was amusing,” he says. “Some thought it was a waste of time and money. Others were intrigued by it.” Some criticism stemmed from the fact that it’s hard to tell from the ground what the mounds are supposed to represent. Heizer has said this was part of his intent: “It requires a chronological development of perception. It’s a diffracted gestalt.”

Travel

Effigy Tumuli is in Buffalo Rock State Park near Ottawa, Illinois. This is about a 2 and a half hour drive from Chicago. We rented a car from the airport and drove from there. There is a lot of construction and subsequent traffic in the Chicago outskirts. So those orange and red portions of the route are very much a problem.

The drive is basically entirely highways until you get near the park. When you turn off into the Buffalo Rock State Park you get to a narrower paved road that goes up to the parking lots. It’s a bit blind, so just be careful coming around the bend, there can be bikers and runners. There are two parking lots at the top. First one has a bit more shade along the edges, but we parked at the second one because it was closer to the artwork and “hike”.

The park is free and doesn’t seem very crowded. We were there with beautiful weather on Memorial Day and it only had a few cars there. There are bathrooms, but I believe they don’t have plumbing. The areas directly around the parking lots seem designed for recreational activities / barbecuing / picnicking. The rest of the park is mainly just for walking around. We saw mainly families, couples, and dog walkers out and about. There is a bluff overlooking the Illinois river along the south edge of the park. There are clear trails looping the park, with some very well trodden offshoots here and there. It was very clean and pretty well maintained. Most surprisingly and unsurprisingly I suppose if you consider its name, there were a couple of bison, named Cocoa and her baby, Hope (funnily, my niece’s name is Coco and my parents’ dog’s middle name is Hope), actually kept at the park. Well, I didn’t actually expect to see them. Unfortunately, there used to be three, and now there are only two left. Pebbles died in October, 2023. That’s a pretty funny name for the great cereal… Cocoa Pebbles.

From left to right: Cocoa and Hope, bathroom facilities, and some rules at the start of the trail.

I did leave the marked trail, but only to go along heavily trodden predefined trails. It should also be noted, there are no trash cans along the trail, only in the picnic / parking area, so please note that before going on the hike. We did track some litter (mostly cans) that had been strewn around in the forests. By no means is it dirty, just frustrating that people can’t be considerate to others and the community.

Unfortunately, most of the plaques regarding Effigy Tumuli have been removed probably due to damage, though the stands / plinths still remain. The signs that are still there do look like they’re decades old. You can tell you’re actually at the correct spot to look at the particular tumuli if you see one of the metal stands still there. There are two at the very beginning of the hike that show some information about it, though in that same starting section a couple more were missing.

Experience

Let me be clear, none of these photos do it justice. The site map is key. It has been over 40 years since it was originally created so the designs are quite well blended into the landscape. I’ve added in a little mini-map to help show what we’re looking at sometimes. I’m going from east to west since it’s the order in which we and most people would see them. I’m particularly curious as to how the flora has grown over time. It has elements of a fully wild meadow with intermittent trees growing throughout. The only truly apparent human influence are the trails that are pretty freshly mowed. The trees however seem to congregate in certain areas, and in particular, nearby some of Heizer’s hill features. I’m curious if they provided an unnatural cover that helped capture seedlings and give them some protection to grow, or if they were just planted in those areas by rangers over the years.

Afterwards, I ended up purchasing an art book off the internet to better understand the process and what it looked like. It’s quite impressive what they did, so I do recommend if you’re interested, to pick up a copy. It’s pretty remarkable. In particular, it’s cool to see the development photos and the original completed tumulis. It’s very cool to look at the park with it’s hills and features, and try and recognize animals and know that it was all so purposefully and meticulously designed.

Water Strider is the first and in my opinion the best. It’s in a large flat area, so you can actually see all the elevation and recognize they’re the legs and antennae of the bug. I found it incredibly cool and a great start that the rest would struggle to live up to. The little long hills were pretty clear, you could see them emanate from its body outward. Originally intended to be located on a body of water, it was decided that because of the larger volume of dirt for Catfish exceeded Water Strider, this one would be moved to higher ground with no water feature underneath.

Frog confused me. I wasn’t quite sure what I was looking at. The backside of the frog was completely mowed and looked like it was inviting people to go off trail, up its back to the top of its “head”. Because of this I wasn’t sure if I should climb up the back. We caught a better glimpse of it from the front on the return loop. You can better see the legs and silhouette, but even then it’s kinda hard given all the trees that have grown around it and on it. After seeing the original pictures of it, the legs are much shorter than I thought they’d be. And all of those trees and bushes that have grown really obscure the structure underneath. The location of frog was selected to utilize an existing hill and save some efforts.

Catfish is the second best, it’s this clearly defined hill. However, it’s hard to really see the fins and whiskers. They are so enveloped by nature, specifically that the aforementioned trees have started growing in the “shadow” of the hill features that were related to the Catfish, so that they’re practically invisible. There are a couple of desire paths that go over the ridge of Catfish and lead off into the distance. Given the desire path existed, I figured it would be okay to go off path and I scaled the earthwork and looked at the view as if I was riding a giant catfish.

Turtle is the least visible. Technically only two legs and a tail are visible from the main area as the head and front legs are down the rock over the edge. We couldn’t catch a glimpse of the front unfortunately, and it’s not worth over exploring since there is a genuine cliff edge that wouldn’t be fun to find accidentally. It’s a cool concept, but hard to appreciate. After seeing the photos in the book, I’m even more impressed with it, and it’s really too bad they couldn’t find a way to make it all visible to people in the park. This one also utilized the existing natural ravines for the head and front fins, only refined for clarity. The “shell” would be the natural existing rock material that cascades down to the water. The absolute baseline of the turtle’s head and front fins coincides with the high-water mark of the Illinois River (at least as of the design time). While at the time of installation they cleared away all the trees so it could be see from the water, and the top, time has certainly taken over and there is an abundance of trees that really obscures it. A truly camouflaged giant turtle.

Snake (rattlesnake) is a fun one to end on. You really only capture some of the snake’s body since it goes up and down the bluff as well. There are some clear desire paths that cut through it and lead to a viewpoint on the edge of the bluffs. These desire paths have really sliced through this part of the snake. The snake solidly provides a boundary for the final loop of the trail, but it’s hard to spot the rest of the body as the elevations change. This is maybe the most impressive one of the bunch based on the photos I saw of the development, however it’s so difficult to see most of it, and time has simply obscured and covered the most impressive parts. The head sits at the edge of the water, but is basically invisible. And the slithering body going up and down the quarry is lost since you can’t follow or see them through those parts without risk of falling.

Snake consists of 7 distinct components and is considered the most complex and difficult to develop and construct. The snake starts at the lower (near-river) elevation, proceeds up the quarry, along the cliff rim, then drops back to the riverfront.

If you cut through Snake there is a nice viewpoint that clearly many locals use to hang out and drink at. There is a steep drop off, so be careful. But technically Snake does wrap around these bluffs, and even goes up and down them. It really is too bad they didn’t find a way to allow people to walk down to the water’s edge and see the other parts of Turtle and Snake.

I’ve decided that my current goal is that my burial be tumuli based. I don’t think I have an animal I would like to represent, but I do like the public park concept. So, my current idea is that in a public park’s field, a 7x7 sized soccer field could have “hilled” corners or sidelines / endlines. Creating a natural ball return / natural seating concept. I like the idea of being useful and facilitating community fun as my tumuli. Plus, a tree that would grow some great shade!

Summary

This isn’t particularly convenient or worthwhile for anyone to go see unless you’re within an hour drive of it for some reason. It’s a beautiful spot, with a great view. Worth a stroll, a picnic, and a day out. But I’m not sure I would recommend it to someone in Chicago. This is one of the more easily accessible pieces and I liked that it was integrated into a public park and people were enjoying it without even knowing what they were enjoying. The art book and historical pictures are also really cool to see and compare! (picture below is a panorama from on top of Catfish)

Sources

1. Illinois Department of Natural Resources. Buffalo Rock State Park. PDF Brochure. Accessed July 17, 2025. https://dnr.illinois.gov/content/dam/soi/en/web/dnr/publications/documents/00000051.pdf.

2. Illinois Department of Natural Resources. “Buffalo Rock State Park.” Accessed July 17, 2025. https://dnr.illinois.gov/parks/park.buffalorock.html.

3. State of Illinois. “Illinois Department of Natural Resources and The Nature Conservancy Announce Agreement for Middle Rock Conservation Partners to Manage and Restore Natural Areas.” Illinois.gov, June 14, 2024. https://www.illinois.gov/news/press-release.27094.html.

4. Tarasen, Michael. “Effigy Tumuli.” Double Negative, 2021. Accessed July 17, 2025. https://doublenegative.tarasen.net/effigy-tumuli.

5. Illinois River Road National Scenic Byway. “Buffalo Rock Tumuli.” Accessed July 17, 2025. https://www.illinoisriverroad.org/historical-sites/united-states/illinois/ottawa/native-american-history/buffalo-rock-tumuli/.

6. Center for Land Use Interpretation. “Effigy Tumuli.” CLUI Land Use Database. Accessed July 17, 2025. https://clui.org/ludb/site/effigy-tumuli.

7. Stribling, Dees. “Buffalo Rock State Park.” Been There, Seen That (Blog), January 17, 2023. https://www.dees-stribling.com/2023/01/17/buffalo-rock-state-park/.

8. “Buffalo Rock State Park 11-13-14.” Hike Starved Rock (Blog), November 13, 2014. Accessed July 17, 2025. https://hikestarvedrock.blogspot.com/2014/11/buffalo-rock-state-park-11-13-14.html.

9. Miner, Michael. “Art under Fire: Tourist Attraction Closed Due to Flying Bullets.” Chicago Reader, June 23, 1994. https://chicagoreader.com/news/art-under-fire-tourist-attraction-closed-due-to-flying-bullets/.

10. Unattributed. Photograph of Buffalo Rock State Park. Googleusercontent (Blogger). Accessed July 17, 2025. https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLjtUYejsf1ogxuHcbEEVWilsPVKJyuWD-cuDWGET7m-RfIxsfhJYChOWYRIvTZ5GIMcqo2oMqcKEGgtb4qJbsANWYLD2Hs4JFtSuPAXAfT_t2yw-5PlvS_6V0APA4UiAVQe3TKf2It1hN/s1600/buffalo+rock+023.jpg.

11. Unattributed. Photograph of Buffalo Rock State Park. Googleusercontent (Blogger). Accessed July 17, 2025. https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPe5ZK_d61-G5rzD7VRocYnBYOb9CMKpHRTajvFuTFuFtC5y_S-wdVW-DQDsUcvXIvLrq_aq7P-K0ar7KuRyB1JZhBMXZuD_Hyk9SzQXv8hRVlSuesqVacVPfJIjcUWS1_VbEZXN__z1zO/s1600/buffalo+rock+028.jpg.

12. McGill, Douglas C., essay by, Effigy Tumuli: The Reemergence of Ancient Mound Building, photographs and explanatory captions by Michael Heizer. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1990

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